in good taste, vol. 81: like a local
my local’s list, the great american ham wave, and chicken decadence
I read this piece in Garden & Gun about 25 restaurants “worth the drive” in, broadly, the American South. (I say “broadly” because lots of folks down here wouldn’t register Texas, nor Illinois, as part of the American South.) I love this list - especially that West Tampa Sandwich Shop made the cut.
What I like most about this list is that it’s not all splashy trendy spots, nor the campy nostalgia hits that always seem to show up on travel guides. When I visit new places, I like a peer review, a verified neighborhood hang, a local’s list.
So here’s a brief version of a local’s list and what to eat, if you find yourself traveling through Atlanta. This is particularly relevant for folks who have never been here “except for the airport”:
Breakfast at Java Jive (Mediterranean scramble)
Lunch at Lee’s Bakery (combo bành mì) or Manuel’s Tavern,
$5 happy hour martinis at Lloyd’s or a more luxe happy hour at the bar at Empire State South,
Then wine & dinner at Little Bear in Summerhill (everything à la carte is amazing, but you should roll the dice on the ‘just f*ck me up fam’ prix fixe menu), Poor Hendrix in East Lake (salmon tartare with Zapp’s chips; brown butter rice krispie), or Gigi’s in Candler Park (beef carpaccio, bay leaf gelato). If it’s Sunday evening, the Sunday Night Spaghetti Dinner at The General Muir over by Emory is a ridiculous, delicious 4-course meal for under $30; when school’s not in session, there’s never a wait.
I’d love to know what would make the local’s list in your neck of the woods!
GLOBAL READING FOR LOCALS
I’m always glad to read a new story on the gas vs. electric cooktop debate - we’re making the switch from gas to induction as part of our forthcoming kitchen reno (2023! Supply chain willing and the creek don’t rise!)
I love a single-use website. HobbyGenerator.com. That’s it! My 4 new hobbies are: Giving advice. Sketching. Swimming. Dancing.
Like an expensive, reclusive local: rent the Invisible House in the Mojave Desert for a cool $150k a month
Celebrating the great American ham wave!
And a brief history & comeback story of the American farmer’s market
CHICKEN DECADENCE WITH VERMOUTH & CREAM
In honor of Julia Child’s 110th birthday week, I present the gift of French-inspired, pure main course indulgence. It is almost indecent how delicious this chicken dinner is. I named it “chicken decadence” because I couldn’t come up with another version that didn’t involve crude language.
We are In Good Taste, after all!!!
This is (obviously) a heavier dish for the height of summer, but I think it works on the same level as a good ol’ Yankee clam chowder. I served this over a buttered half of leftover baguette slices my friend Avery had brought over - you could do the same, to let the sauce soak into the bread. Alternatively, egg noodles would be fine.
INGREDIENTS
1-2 tsp. neutral oil (I used grapeseed)
4 oz., chopped pancetta
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, excess fat trimmed, seasoned with salt & pepper
1 shallot, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, chopped fine
¾ cup dry vermouth
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup chicken stock
1 tbsp. whole-grain Dijon mustard
¼ tsp, nutmeg
¼ cup, finely chopped fresh tarragon
½ a baguette, sliced and buttered on one side
WHAT TO DO
Heat oven at 375. Brown the chicken thighs in the oil in a large skillet on medium-high, searing both sides until golden. Set thighs on a baking sheet in the oven and a timer for 20 minutes.
Drain the pan of about 75% of the oil & fat, then fry pancetta on medium heat until crispy. Set the pancetta aside in a small bowl, and add shallots to the pan, letting them cook until softened. Add garlic and let it get golden (but not brown). Mix in the vermouth, let it come to a boil, reduce by half. Add chicken stock, cream, mustard, nutmeg, and tarragon, mix to combine and let it simmer. Taste your sauce to see if it requires salt (it may, depending on your chicken stock).
Add pancetta and chicken thighs (skin side up) back to the pan, nestling the chicken in the sauce (but it shouldn’t cover it). Let it continue to cook until it reaches 160, or is cooked through.
Hi Emily! I enjoyed your newsletter, especially the recipe, which sounds delicious. I think Julia would approve! It’s possibly too rich for my dietary requirements. However, more wine and less cream might work. I do love tarragon! I will ask my Atlanta relatives whether they’ve tried any of the restaurants you mentioned. Keep up the good work!