“Does every word do new work?” This is a good question I learned early on about writing, by way of William Zinsser, by way of one of this newsletter’s subscribers (hello, Ms. Anne Giles!).
I think the question has stuck with me because it presents such a useful framework for thinking about just about anything. Less about the mechanics of writing, but reducing complexity. Being economical, resourceful, thoughtful, considerate. Cooking with what you’ve got, but not being extra with it.
I don’t want to get preachy, but it’s a good philosophy to chew on.
I STILL DON’T THINK I REALLY GET OCCAM’S RAZOR, BUT
Yes to extremely long, extremely quiet, extremely soothing videos. Like following a train from Switzerland to Italy, or watching ships in a Minnesota harbor.
No matter where you are with your quarantine supplies, at least you don’t accidentally have over 60 pounds of canned chickpeas?
“‘Our town is not easy to love,’ a Lyonnais novelist had written in the thirties (the Fascist Henri Béraud, who was also not so easy to love). ‘It is an acquired taste. Almost a vice.’”
What do you do as a beloved public television travel guide in these Inside Times? Rick Steves learns to cook and enjoys every sunset.
ROAST CHICKEN; OR, THE SIMPLEST FANCY FEAST
Roast chicken is one of those things that is so uncomplicated, so unfussy, so primally easy. And yet, somehow, there are a zillion & a half Googleable methods to ‘get it right.’ Also, it’s the kind of dinner recipe that makes you feel like you’ve really done it.
Procure a whole bird, not too big. Slather, season, prod, stretch, stuff with fats and simple, whole foods. Sit it on a bed of other simple, whole foods. Cook ‘til crispy and juices run clear. This is the basic premise.
Please give your bird the respect and dignity it deserves. Don’t wash it. Don’t waste your time with twine-trussing. Don’t over-think it.
Prep time: 45 minutes
Cook time: 1 hour
INGREDIENTS
1 whole chicken on the smaller side, about 3-4 pounds
3 lemons: 2 sliced thinly, and 1 cut in half
5-6 garlic cloves: 3-4 kept whole & peeled, and 1-2 extremely thinly sliced
A bouquet garni: rosemary, sage, thyme, etc. Any whole herbs you have, tied up together with some cooking twine or cut-up cheesecloth.
Half a stick of butter, softened to be malleable but not melted
~¼ cup vegetable oil
Salt & pepper, dry seasonings all mixed together
8-10 new red potatoes, quartered
2-3 carrots, chopped into ¼-inch pieces
Half a white onion, chopped
A note on dry seasonings: It’s up to what’s in your pantry. I love a mix of sumac, cumin, white pepper. A classic poulet rôti would have you use herbes de Provence. A harissa and turmeric combo would be a great choice for kick & aesthetic.
WHAT TO DO:
Do your mise en place before you get chicken-hands and salmonella all over your kitchen. Preheat your oven to 475. Check your chicken for any inside-bits stuck in the cavity (I know you all come here for the wordsmithing). Likely, the giblets/ORGANS will already be bagged up in there for easy removal, but you’ll want to take them out yourself if not. Pat your chicken completely dry, inside and out.
Start with the gross part (IMO): the cavity. Once it’s dry, you’re going to stuff that half-lemon and whole garlic and bouquet garni right up in there. Throw a bunch of salt in as well.and spread it around with your hand. Don’t think about it too much. This chicken died for your dinner.
Next, the outside. You’re going to slide the thin lemon slices, butter, and thin garlic pieces under the skin, particularly on drier areas like the breast. Do this easily by starting at the neck, create a little wiggle room for your fingers (but not so much that the skin tears). Get all of it, all under the skin of the entire chicken.
Rub the oil all over the chicken (this will help it brown and crisp under high heat without burning), salt & pepper & spice the hell out of it, all over, as evenly as you can.
You don’t need a roasting pan, but great if you have one. Either way, your onions/carrots/potatoes will act as a mattress topper for a casserole baking dish/cast-iron skillet/roasting pan so they’ll cook in the chicken fat and oh my god, y’all, why would you ever not do it this way?
Put your chicken on top of its little bed, and then into its preheated oven. You’re going to cook it for 25 minutes at 475, and 35 minutes at 375 for a 3.5 lb bird. If your chicken is larger, you can likely stay at the full temperature the whole time, but a bigger chicken is not a better chicken, I will not be taking questions.
Think about how simplicity is relative. Make someone else carve the chicken for you (asking nicely helps).