in good taste, vol. 39: bon anniv
on birthdays, lionfish, and hearts of palm chicken
I am not one of those people, but I love my birthday. I like the idea and experience of getting older. I enjoy reflecting on it and giving myself little self-care pats for the sustained achievement of being alive (if nothing else). This isn’t for everyone, but it is for me.
The day feels more like the marker of a fresh year than January 1, and I have a lot of little rituals that go along with it. Who I’m with, what I eat or drink or listen to or watch or read; theoretically, these moments and activities set the tone.
Last year, my mother spent the long weekend with us; I shopped for a wedding dress and cooked roasted pork for a few friends. We saw An American in Paris in a quiet OTP theatre, dressed up for dinner at Babette’s, and afterwards, had Vesper Martinis at the Clermont. What can I say? Things were different in just about every single way.
This year, tomorrow, the plan is to evaluate plans for this newsletter moving forward; go grocery shopping with my husband; perhaps cook something decadent and difficult the whole afternoon. Do some Youtube yoga; avoid the news; try to stay present and appreciative, instead of nostalgic and wistful.
We’re in the throes of house-buying right now, so maybe I’ll Pin myself straight into the future. How lucky can one lady get in her 33rd turn around the sun?
SOME PLEASANT DISTRACTIONS
2 recent long reads you should take the time for:
This piece by Ann Patchett for Harper’s is a tonic. It has so many narrative turns, I can’t begin to describe them, but I felt really good after I read the whole thing.
On competitive lionfish hunting. I am now DEEPLY interested in lionfish tacos.
For a little ambient pleasure, a map of SlowTV links around the world.
Sorry, this one’s stressful, but it’s deeply, personally relevant to me and many folks who subscribe to this newsletter: how working through a coup enables “the black heart of productivity culture.”
HEARTS OF PALM BRAISED CHICKEN FOR DEEP WINTER
Use canned hearts of palm for this simple dinner, or your preferred method of artichoke hearts, but make sure they’re plain (not marinated). Also, you can riff on this recipe for other cuts of chicken, not just whole legs.
INGREDIENTS:
2 chicken leg quarters, bone-in and skin-on
S&P
1 tbsp. olive oil
1 can of hearts of palm (plain), drained
1 red onion, sliced
1 tbsp. capers
¼ cup, sliced green olives
1 ¼ cup white wine
A few sprigs of fresh herbs like thyme, sage, rosemary, dill
A pinch of smoked paprika & zest of half a lemon (sub out a pinch of sumac, if you have it)
WHAT TO DO:
Heat oven to 425. Season chicken on both sides with salt and pepper.
Heat oil in a large, oven-safe skillet and add chicken, skin-side down. Cook about 10 minutes, or until skin is browned, then flip to cook the other side about 5 minutes. You don’t have to cook it all the way through, but it should be mostly done -- set it aside on a plate. Add hearts of palm and red onions to the pan, cooking for about 5 minutes.
Add wine, herb sprigs, capers, and olives to the mix, and cook until fragrant and liquid is reduced about half, salt & peppering to taste. Add chicken back to the pan, over the artichoke hearts and onions. Place in the oven until the chicken has cooked through, about 10 minutes.
Top with any remaining herbs and the paprika-zest (or sumac) before serving with pearled couscous or rice.