in good taste, vol. 109: wine and dine
restaurants! rants! raves!, what to order in Atlanta, and miso vinaigrette!


New format for this edition, for no good reason other than I have a bit of spring fever. Buckle up for some errant thoughts, presented in no particular order.
New ways to order:
A bit sad to hear about the closure of Gem Wine in NYC. I only went there once in January with my (Atlanta) friend Xun, but it was a cozy nook in a busy city. We shared some lovely buttered radishes and I had a nice glass of a Spanish red. I would tell you more about the wine, what it was and who made it, but they did this thing where there was no printed by-the-glass list, the server would just recommend something. Maybe this isn’t specific to Gem, but I thought (and still do) that this way of ordering is cool in theory but weird in practice.
On one hand, pricing aside, ordering this way mitigates some of the apprehension people have around wine. You know, why not just let the actual experts pick something you’ll probably like? On the other hand, it’s awkward and I like looking at a menu. I like reference material! I’m not an indecisive person, but I like to have a little look-see, and I don’t always want to ask a question. Anyway, still, sorry to see them go. I really had a nice time, but I’m good with ordering a glass of wine in a restaurant without a whole performance around it.
“My knowledge of one thing being born from a fear of looking stupid enforces unhelpful ideals that prevent me from accessing joy and appreciation and playfulness in another. So what if I’m an idiot, you probably are, too. We all have to start from somewhere.” - and other good soundbites from the J’adore le plonk newsletter
Wine doesn’t need more gatekeeping:
Speaking of wine: Atlanta really does trends on its own time, and not a moment sooner. While bigger cities have seemingly maxed-out on wine bars and small plates and French food, we’ve got 3 on deck. I am absolutely thrilled about each of them -- Fawn in Decatur, Madeira Park in Poncey-Highland, Sargent in Old 4th Ward, and I’m hopeful more are on the way.
Wine’s having its moment here, with these cool casual spots providing an easier atmosphere for low-stakes learning. It helps that these wine bars are about 1000x more chic than the old brewery-food truck-park combo, or when Atlanta was really gone on Top Chef cheeseburger joints. However there must be balance in the natural world of taste and the other side of the spectrum here is the alleged rise of private wine clubs … which, I’m not sorry to say, sound like the opposite of a good time.
We’ll never be royals
Finally, I have been watching Rachel Meghan Markle Mountbatten-Windsor Sussex’s show on Netflix, “With Love, Meghan,” and I am For It, even as I feel neutral about her as a public personality. The amount of hand-wringing about this woman is ick (amongst other things). The television program she hosts is simple, uplifting, visually appealing; she wears beautiful clothing and swans around a sparkling farmhouse doing fun, nice gift projects like candle-making. It’s fine!


Where and what to order this spring in Atlanta:
Brunch:
Eggs & crispy potatoes at The Porter Beer Bar in Little Five Points
The loaded avocado bowl at The Daily in Inman Park
Al fresco snack:
Jammy egg and fries at aforementioned Madeira Park in Poncey Highland
The smaller charcuterie board at Staplehouse in Old 4th Ward
Lunch:
Split a turkey, pepperoni, and provolone hoagie at Little Hippo in Avondale Estates
Or the tuna melt at Bona Fide Deluxe in Edgewood (it should be noted Atlanta has also been going through a sandwich shop phase)
Dinner:
Agedashi tofu at Dead End Drinks in Kirkwood
Oysters and larb anything at Talat Market in Summerhill
Lamb skewers and smoked trout dip at Poor Hendrix in East Lake.
Top 3 martini spots:
Classic gin martinis (2:1) from David at a mano in Old 4th Ward
From Carter at Talat Market
From Morgan at The Deer & The Dove in Decatur.
Miscellany:
Ideas for designing a front garden. We’re on a mission to replace our front lawn with flowering and edible plants. Currently sprouting in our garden: sugar snap peas, zinnias, carrots, onions, ranunculus, and various wildflowers. See below: my “Outdoors, Great” Pinterest board with sections on the inspiration for our gardens front & back, give it a follow if you want!
“Most languages have at least five different colour terms: dark, light, red, yellow, blue/green. The Japanese language doesn’t distinguish strongly between blue and green, so Japanese speakers find it more difficult to visually distinguish between these two colors.”
A couple of lovely pieces lately about color and design: what a blue apple can tell you about design, and why we’re so obsessed with the color blue
Have you ever been on a trip and wondered where the bookstores were? Here is an incredible resource & map that charts out independent bookshops and sellers around the country, as well as openings & closings.
A good Instagram Reel reminding you that the best travel souvenirs can be miscellany in a “junk” journal like ticket stubs, receipts, and other ephemera. And here is a very old-Internet looking list of journal ideas from poet Bernadette Mayer. Refreshing!
Have linked to this before, maybe, but one of the places I’m most excited to see in Cornwall during our September trip is Barbara Hepworth’s studio in St. Ives!
MISO VINAIGRETTE
I want miso vinaigrette everything in spring. It’s good on grilled vegetables. It’s good on a crisp green salad. It’s good as a marinade for chicken or lamb. It’s easy to store for a while in the fridge in a mason jar, just bring it to room temp and shake well when you’re ready to use it. It’s my new favorite dressing to make!
INGREDIENTS
4 tsp. white miso paste
1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
1 garlic clove, smashed and minced
2 tsp., red wine vinegar
Small pinch of salt and pepper
2 tbsp., olive oil
WHAT TO DO
Combine all ingredients except the olive oil in a bowl, whisking the miso to warm it up and meld it a bit, and let the ingredients sit for about 10 minutes. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until combined and add more of it and the salt & pepper to your taste.
Loving the wine bars popping up all over the city.... Madeira Park was fantastic! Looking forward to checking out Fawn very soon!
Love the new look. I'm going to make that dressing.